Sunday, 3 August 2014

Spotting A Fraud Part 2

Lately on specific websites, I have been spotting more people lying about the genetics of their animals in order to increase sales value. Sadly in the reptile industry this has been becoming more common and horrible to see, especially when the targets are people just getting into the hobby.  

The scammers are very popular when it comes to royal pythons as they are the most commonly found animal in the reptile trade. They also have extensive genetics and sometimes understanding the difference between dominant, co-dominant and recessive genes can be hard to grasp.

When purchasing a reptile, ensure that you have researched what morph you plan on buying carefully and only buy from reputable sources. When looking at advertisements, look for the words "possible and het." 

Possible means that the breeder is unsure if the animal has a specific gene so therefore don't expect that to be in the animal when you purchase it. This term should only be used when referring to a non visual gene, a recessive animal.

Het means heterozygous and this is basically a recessive gene that can skip a generation if not bred back to a visual. To get a visual recessive animal, two hets of the same gene need to be paired together and if this is not the case then the gene stays hidden. 

To avoid falling into this trap;
 1. Ask the breeder for paper work showing records of where the animal was purchased. 
 2. Ask questions, as if they are lying, they won't know the answers and get flustered. 
 3. Ask people who have had dealings with the breeder/seller. 
 4. Always go to a reliable shop/breeder. 
 5. Take extra care when purchasing an animal on sites like Facebook and Gumtree. 
 6. Visit World Of Ball Pythons or similar sites to learn about basic genetics. 

The only way to prove a heterozygous or possible animal is through breeding. Although don't let this put you off buying a het, just be careful and know what to look out for. 





Two examples of possible scams.

The first image may lead people to think they   are purchasing a cape morph, which does not exist. The snake appears to be a normal.




 The second image shows "100% het albinos". With no paper work the buyer relies on the seller's word. There is also no listed breeder for where the snakes came from, just a friend.







I have also seen people selling animals that can't be heterozygous for example; fire, banana, pastel and spider to name a few. These morphs are all visible and non recessive.

List of common recessive royal pythons;
1. Albino
2. Pied
3. Axanthic
4. Clown
5. Genetic Stripe
6. Ghost/Hypo

For more information and lists of recessive reptiles visit; http:/www.newenglandreptile.com/genetics_simple_recessive.html

For further information on spotting frauds 

Tuesday, 22 July 2014

Reptile Community Disputes

When first getting into reptiles, it may be an idea to use social networking to connect with other reptile keepers. I myself have done this and found that using social media to connect with other reptile keepers is not always a positive thing.

The reptile community online is full of passionate people and this can quickly escalate into anger. Everything can turn nasty from keeping your animals in different set ups to what bedding you use and even what disinfectant you use. Furthermore you could be drawn into 'shop vs breeder wars'. I have witnessed this quite a few times and don't understand what the issue is.

Frankly all the negative and personal attacks on people is giving the reptile community a bad name. If people accepted that there are various ways to keep the animals and as long as they are healthy and properly cared for, then there are no problems. Different things work for different people, whether it's using a rack system or vivarium. If you can't contribute in a polite manner then say nothing at all.
















The bigger the group, the more chance of arguments breaking out is significantly higher. Admin cannot always control it due to the amount of people involved and admin are not always online to deal with these issues. In some cases, I have seen personal attacks on individuals that have been extremely heated and became very personal to those involved. Everything from the price you sell them for to where you buy your reptiles from could potentially start an argument. 

Another thing that angers me is trolling on the groups. For those of you who are unaware of what 'trolling' means, it is the process of deliberately angering someone to provoke a response. For example, in a pro-snake group, someone posted a video of a beheaded rattlesnake. In my opinion, this is simply sick and uncalled for. Most trolls tend to delete their posts after they have succeeded in upsetting people.  

If you are an admin of a group and find yourself with people arguing/trolling, the best thing to do is;
  • Check who you are adding before you add them.
  • Remove any posts that causes arguments or if possible, try to defuse the situation.
  • Repeat offenders should be removed from the group.

With all these new acts being enforced to take away our reptiles, we need to stick together and not unleash personal attacks on each other. 
 

Friday, 18 July 2014

When Reptiles Get Too Hot

With a heat wave upon us, it is vital to ensure that any animal will not be effected. I heard a sad story last week about someone losing his reptiles because their enclosures were too warm. This made me sad because with the right equipment and proper care the loss could have been prevented. 

Temperature regulation in a heated enclosure is highly important and I can't recommend enough how important it is to use a thermostat. All reptile keepers should have one as it is a necessity and vital to the animal's well being. I use MicroClimate stats (B2 pulse stats) for my reptiles. This ensures my heat mats do not exceed the temperature that is required. As far as I am aware, mat stats can be used for bulbs. Do not use pulse stats as these can blow the bulb, although dimmer stats are more effective for bulbs. I recommend using a stat at all times.

  • A mat stat is a thermostat that provides constant heat, although when reaching a certain point will turn off for a short period of time. They are the most common thermostat for first time owners and are not as expensive, however they are not as accurate.
  • A pulse stat is a type of thermostat that provides bursts of heat when needed. They are more accurate than mat stats and are popular with racks or for heating multiple reptiles, assuming they need the same temperatures or thereabouts. 


B2 Microclimate

Microclimate Ministat






































I would also recommend purchasing a digital thermometer and placing them inside the tank, one on the hot side and one on the cool side, although these are not always accurate. Alternatively if you are more fussy, invest in a temperature gun. These measure an exact spot and are more precise. 

Always look for signs that your reptiles are overheated. For example spending lots of time in the water bowl when not in shed, about to lay eggs or have mites. Signs of reptiles being over heated include, dehydration, skin abnormalities, lethargic, spending all their time in the cool side and soaking for long periods in the water bowl.

When temperatures reach 36°C is when you should turn off your heat source and allow it to cool down. Also always ensure that you have not placed your reptiles in direct sunlight as this will increase the heat. Always remember that when keeping reptiles, it's better to have them slightly too cold as reptiles can survive for longer when it is cooler. Too much heat is more dangerous and can kill a reptile within minutes.

If you find that the cool end of the enclosure is getting too hot, you may find that placing an electric fan beside the vents will help cool it down. You can also wedge the tank door open slightly but be warned this could lead to escapees! Furthermore you could lightly spray the enclosure though be aware this can raise humidity. In some cases, a bath might be more appropriate.


Click here for information on heating 

Click here for more information on thermostats

Saturday, 5 July 2014

World Cup Reptiles

In light of the 2014 FIFA world cup, I thought I would post up a reptile from the final 16 countries. As each team is knocked out a reptile will be elimated from the line up! Just thought it would be a bit of fun.


Brazil vs Chile 

1 - 1


Rainbow Boa
Thin Three Lizard
















Columbia vs Uraguay

2 - 0

Columbian Rainbow Boa


                        
Coral Snake










France vs Nigera

2 - 0




Vipera berus
Bosc Monitor


         








Germany vs Algeria


vipera-berus
                      2 - 1
Horse Shoe Whipsnake














Holland vs Mexico

2 - 1


Desert Tortoise


Viviparous lizard
















Costa Rica vs Greece

5 - 3


neotropical rattlesnake
elaphe scalaris
















Argentia vs Switzerland

1 - 0



Leopard Iguana
Dice Snake



















Belgium vs Usa

2 - 1



Slow Worm
Diamondback Rattlesnake













Final 8 Teams


Brazil vs Columbia

2 - 1



Rainbow Boa

Columbian Rainbow Boa















Holland vs Costa Rica

4 - 3



Viviparous lizard
neotropical rattlesnake




France vs Germany

0 - 1







Vipera berus
vipera-berus















Argentina vs Belgium

1 - 0




Leopard Iguana


Slow Worm















Last 4 Teams



Brazil vs Germany

1 - 7


Rainbow Boa

vipera berus
















Holland vs Argentina

1 - 3




Leopard Iguana
Viviparous lizard













 

Match for Third Place

 

Rainbow Boa

Viviparous lizard
 Brazil vs Holland

0 - 3

 

 

 

 

 





The Final

 

Leopard Iguana


vipera berus

Germany vs Argentina
                 
                 1 - 0 









The Winner of the FIFA 2014 World Cup 


Germany



vipera berus (common viper)