Cohabiting Reptiles

In this post, I will be covering the controversial topic of cohabiting reptiles and the effects it can induce on the animals.

It is important to research each animal thoroughly before thinking of cohabiting as some species are cannibalistic and cannot be housed together. Others may fight or bully cage mates and cause serious injury or even death. This generally happens when two males are housed together although females not getting along is not uncommon.

If you have no other choice and need to house two reptiles in the same enclosure, then a set of rules must be followed carefully to avoid unnecessary risks to your animal.

• Never feed snakes in the same enclosure, feed them separately outside of the vivarium. Furthermore, keep the snakes away from each other for twelve hours as this is when the feeding response and digesting will subside. Be aware that if you feed them in the vivarium together, a hungry snake will not pay attention to what it is eating and could lead to one animal trying to eat the other. For extra security you may wish to gently rub each snake down with a damp, luke warm towel before returning to their enclosure to erase the scent of rodents.
• Ensure that you are providing enough comfortable hiding spots, preferably two of everything; two warm hides, two cool hides and multiple basking spots. The animals will need enough space to avoid each other if they so wish as they will compete for dominance and prime spots. Just think back to when you had to share a loved toy with a sibling, it was not a comfortable feeling!

Carpet python

Housing two animals together is not how the snake would behave in the wild. Snakes are not social animals and curling up together does not mean that they are enjoying the company. This generally means one is attempting to dominate the other- with the dominant one being on the bottom if you have a heat mat or on top if you have ceramic heating from above. Remember you will also need to ensure that both animals are the same size as keeping a small animal with a larger one can trigger the feeding response. 

When it comes to cohabiting lizards such as leopard geckos, attention should be paid to the size of your tank, how many hides you have, and other husbandry issues. Also make sure that you are present at feeding times to ensure that each gecko is getting the correct amount of food. Leopard geckos can bully each other and one may not allow the other to have any food. As with snakes, check that the lizards are the same size before introducing them to the same enclosure.

When introducing a new animal into to an already established vivarium, you will need to take out the resident animal and clean the housing thoroughly to rid it of any scents and make it neutral. Then introduce the animals in a neutral zone, such as the bed. This is a good way to observe how they behave and if they will get along.

Leopard geckos

Now that we know the basics, lets explore a more controversial topic that is 'housing entirely different species together'. I personally would never consider this as there are too many risks involved and I would not put my animals through it. Although I have seen cases where this has occurred and for some people have even worked. This post is designed to inform people of risks involved with cohabiting and it is not my intention to offend anyone.

• Two species in the same climate will have different needs to thrive, whether this is humidity, temperature, substrate and general husbandry. Although these issues may not effect the animal straight away they may cause problems down the line.
• In the wild, the two species may never meet and this may heighten to fighting among vivarium occupants. This can be a major issue with the same species of animals  never mind mixed species. Larger animals may prey on smaller cage mates. They may also fight for the best hiding and basking spots.
• Cross-contamination. All living creatures carry unique bacteria called protozoans and what may be harmless to one reptile can be harmful to others, resulting in illness and spreading of infection and parasites.
• Nocturnal and diurnal species may stress each other out, when one is sleeping the other may disturb it.
• Reptiles are generally solitary and territorial so do not appreciate sharing space.

Reticulated python and green anaconda

Some herpetologists may have success with mixing species and cohabiting although this decision should never be made lightly or for the sole reason of saving space. The welfare of the animal should be put first. In most cases the animals should be kept individually as most reptiles do not show signs of sickness and stress until it is too late.

For further information click here

Venom Explained

Venomous reptiles in captivity will be the topic I am covering in this post. One of the main debates regards the risk outweighing the rewards, as one bite can end your life. In this post, I will talk about the various venom groups and touch on some of the important facts that you are required to know regarding keeping venomous reptiles.

Several countries have laws and regulations that relate to the keeping dangerous animals in captivity. Owners require a DWA (Dangerous Wild Animal) license in order to legally keep them. Other countries do not enforce this law and therefore you do not need a license in order to keep venomous reptiles.

In order to apply for a DWAL, you will need to enquire with your local council, as it is they who supply the license. You must be 18 or over to apply and a fee may be enforced. Please contact your local authority if you wish to find out more information.

Back to the main topic; venom. How many types of venom are there in reptiles?  The answer is- there are a lot, but they fall under three main types.

NEUROTOXIC

This type of venom attacks the victim’s nervous system, causing suffocation by paralysing the respiratory system. This is quite common amongst elapids such as cobras.

King Cobra

CYTOTOXIC

Accounting for around 80% of all venomous bites, this toxin damages the tissue and causes necrosis. Death occurs by severe necrosis or blood loss. This venom is usually found in vipers (such as rattlesnakes) and causes swelling with pain.

Rattlesnake

HEMOTOXIC

Hemotoxins attack blood vessels, disrupt blood clotting, and causes organ degeneration with blood loss. This is usually found in snakes such as boomslangs and within the viperidae family. Although there is no immediate pain, it still remains deadly venom.

Boomslang

If you are not used to studying reptiles (especially snakes as they are the most venomous in regards to species within the reptile family), then it is next to impossible to spot a venomous snake just by appearance. There are a few that are infamous such as cobras with their distinct hood, and rattlesnakes that rattle their tail. However, some are not so easy to spot such as a mamba as they can be confused with non-venomous snakes. Therefore it is important not to approach an unidentified snake species in the wild.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, of the 7,000 - 8,000 people bitten by venomous snakes in America every year, only 5 die. This rate is higher in areas that medical care is less accessible such as parts of Africa and Asia. This may sound high but when you compare it to dog bites per year, in America, there are 4.5 million dog bites with twenty percent of those requiring medical attention. 

Green Mamba

When kept in captivity, there are certain rules you must follow when keeping a venomous snake. Most importantly, always use a snake hook to handle your snake. This allows you to control the animal without it being too close to you. If the snake is very long, use two snake hooks to manipulate the snake so it does not get a chance to bite you and also does not escape.

When it comes to venomous lizards, there are not many candidates. Gila monsters and beaded dragons are the only ones that you could keep as a pet (with a DWA license of course). The Komodo Dragon is also venomous although keeping one of them is by far – too dangerous. Lizards such as the Gila Monster grind their venom into the wounds of their prey, increasing the amount in the victim’s bloodstream. Furthermore, their venom is produced in their lower jaw as opposed to snakes that produce their venom in their upper jaws. 

Gila Monster

Not everything regarding venom is negative from a human point of view. Research into the medicinal properties of venom have achieved some promising results that can potentially help with diseases such as type 2 diabetes, Alzheimer’s, schizophrenia, and ADHD to name but a few. Hopefully in the future they will produce a cure for these diseases amongst many others.  Additionally, those who keep venomous snakes have the ability to ‘milk’ them for their venom in order to make anti-venom.

In concluding, if you are considering keeping a venomous reptile, please do your research and apply for a DWA license (if applicable in your country). I do not own any venomous reptiles myself but I have seen them up close in vivariums and can honestly say they are majestic creatures. If you come across an animal in the wild and unsure if it is venomous or not, the best option is to leave it alone and walk away; in that situation, the risk is definitely not worth the rewards.

Happy Holidays

From all at Miss L Reptile, we hope all your reptile wishes come true this year! Thank you to everyone who reads this blog, hope you enjoyed the experience and come back in the new year. All the positive comments makes all the hard work and research worth while.

Bumblebee Ball Python

Bumblebee Royal Python

Blaze the Bumblebee

Penny Pinstripe Royal Python

Penny Pinstripe Ball Python

Early Christmas Present

You guessed right, I finally got another addition! I think at this rate it will never end! I am now on snake number six and reptile number eight. After all, one does not simply buy one reptile!

We have named the new snake Flora as she is a butter royal python that we hope will be a future breeder for our bumblebee. She is settling in well and even accepted a feed the day after we collected her.The cutie was bred by Mike Wilbanks and purchased in Hamm, Germany by Eddie at Reptile Hunter. 

Flora

Flora

In other news: I have also took reptile keeping even further by getting my first reptile ink. Due to having type one diabetes, my new tattoo is of a leopard gecko holding a type one diabetes ribbon.

New Ink

Male Royal Python Ready to Breed Before Female?

At the moment I have a male ball python that is ready to breed although, my female is still too young and nowhere near the correct breeding weight of 1500g. After conducting much research online and talking to various breeders I have discovered that it's important not to let males get overweight, especially if one is looking to produce good fertile eggs.

At present moment in time, my male is sitting at 700g. This means that he is ready to breed and putting on weight rapidly. This is a bit of a problem as my female needs to wait at least another two years before I could consider breeding. This poses a problem as males can become more lazy and not produce good quality sperm when over 1200g.

Large Ball Python

This means that I will have to either purchase a female that is breeding weight or change the feeding routine of the male. Due to lack of space I have decided to opt for a different feeding routine. When the male reaches 1000g I will switch to a smaller size feeding item every second week whilst keeping the normal size prey. By doing so, I hope to achieve a balanced weight of around 1100g without it declining or increasing majorly. Furthermore, if he does fast there is plenty of fat reserves to sustain him for a good few months as we all know royal pythons can be picky!

Brumation

There is conflicting advice regarding if brumation is beneficial for your reptiles. If you do not know already about brumation and what it means, please have a look at the next section of this post.

Brumation - What is it?

Brumation is the process of which reptiles undergo during the winter months in the natural environment. It involves the reptile becoming more slow with their movements in order to conserve energy to survive. Reptiles, being cold blooded, require heat in order to be active, so if there is very little heat, they won't move about as much. Furthermore, they will go off their food in order to clear out their stomachs for the brumation period. This is logical as you do not want rotting food in their digestive system. 

If brumating, you will want to gradually drop the temperature over around a month. Do NOT suddenly drop the temperatures as this can kill your animal. Please refer to the temperature section of this post to find out about what temperature should be at the end of this month. Same rule after brumation- gradually raise the temperature back up to what it normally is over the course of one month or so.

After the brumation period, reptiles such as royal pythons tend to go back on their food (quite heavily) before searching for a mate. Following mating, the female will form and lay the eggs which uses the animal's fat reserves. This is why they feed heavily after brumation. In captivity, some breeders lower the temperatures for their breeding reptiles in order to trigger the brumation response. The belief is that by brumating the reptiles, they will lay more eggs and are more fertile compared to the reptiles that breed and do not undergo brumation, although this is disputed by other breeders who do not brumate their reptiles and produce fertile, healthy animals. 

Reptiles can undergo brumation by themselves, even if the temperature is not low enough in their enclosure. The most common signals are refusing feed and sleeping more/slowing down (becoming more lethargic). They also may spend more time on the cool end of the enclosure.

Brumation Temperature

The ambient temperature for brumation to be successful is generally around the 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit mark (4-10 degrees Celsius).   When I first found this out, I was shocked that it was so low but don't forget- in the wild, reptiles would borrow underground to seek this heat as the ambients above ground may be in the minuses. 

Pros of Brumating

It is commonly recognised that brumation increases the probability of fertility in breeding, although further scientific evidence is required to ultimately prove this theory.

By brumating your reptile, you are replicating their natural environment.

Brumation also helps by giving the reptile's digestive system a break. 

It may contribute to fighting obesity in reptiles.

Cons of Brumating

If temperatures are not kept accurate, aka they fall too low, your reptile(s) may suffer health problems and even worse- die.

It may cause respiratory illness (RI) due to low ambient temperatures. This can lead to painful treatment and high vet bills.

Conclusion

I can see the benefits of brumation, however, I would not personally brumate my reptiles unless they undergo it naturally themselves. If you are keeping your reptiles as pets only and don't plan on breeding, my advice would be to refrain from brumating as it is not necessary. If you are breeding them and want a better success rate, I would suggest brumation but do more research on the process of brumating your particular reptile. 

Keeping Reptiles Warm In Winter - Ambient Temperatures

If you are worried about what the winter may bring for your reptiles regarding ambient temperatures, this post is for you.

Let me start by saying everyone is different when it comes to what they consider as 'acceptable ambient temperature' but I would say that it is generally practiced that around 70 Fahrenheit (20 Celsius) is the minimum that you should keep the ambient temperatures, assuming you're not brumating your reptiles. Ensure that your hot spot is what it should be and there is a clear temperature gradient throughout your reptiles' enclosures.

For more information on the various types of heating, please refer to my heating reptiles post.

During a power cut, it is very helpful to have a backup heat source. Some people have generators that they can use in case of a power cut but others do not have the privileges for a generator (I being one of them). Instead, I stock up on heat packs. These are packs that come in a variety of sizes which when opened, begin to heat up. They take a while to heat but they last some 12 hours or so. Usually, these heat packs are used when transporting reptiles. Please note, I use these as my reptiles are not huge. If you have a large reptile such as a burmese python, you will most likely need a generator if your electric cuts out for a long period of time. Alternatively, you can keep your reptiles warm for a short period of time by using your body heat. Place your reptile in a pillow case and hold them close to your body. The pillow case will allow air flow and will keep them from exploring around your room.

Remember to keep checking your animals throughout the cold snap to ensure they are eating, drinking, shedding, excreting and behaving as normal. I tend to handle my reptiles less during the winter as the ambients are not as high as what they are during the summer months.