Humidity

After photographing my geckos yesterday, I noticed that one had an incomplete shed. Today I helped her get the stuck skin off as I do not want her becoming ill. To help Violet remove the shed, I filled a plastic container with spaghum moss. I left her in the box with the moss for 10 minutes, spraying her with water every so often. I then used a cotton bud, cue tip if you live in the USA to gently rub the skin off. This worked and now the stuck shed has been removed completely. 

If your gecko has a stuck shed, I recommend using the advice above for baby geckos. If you don't have the moss you can replace this with damp paper towels. For adult geckos, you can give them a luke warm bath for 10 minutes. Ensure that the water is around half an inch or so deep as if it is too deep, the gecko might drown. Always keep an eye on your gecko while they are bathing to ensure their safety. Then once again gently remove the skin with a cotton bud. Tip: always ensure when using a plastic box, that there is a steady air flow. I used a container that has small holes soldered into the plastic. 

If you are too nervous to try the above, take your gecko to a vet or reptile shop. They deal with stuck sheds all the time. It is VITAL to be as gentle as possible as you don't want to hurt or injure your gecko. 

When keeping a gecko, always provide them with a moist hide. This allows them access to higher humidity levels when needed. I ensure both my geckos have a moist hide which I made using a plastic container that I have cut a hole in. To make sure there were no sharp edges I added a  rubber grommet. Alternatively, you can use a file to smooth the edges. Inside the box I place fresh sphagnum moss  daily. 

If you look closely at Violets nose you can see the stuck shed.

Humidity

This brings me to today's topic which is the importance of humidity. Like temperature, it is important to ensure the correct humidity for your reptiles. Having too high a reading can lead to Respiratory Infections. Signs for such infections include bloated body, loss of appetite, wheezing, clicking noises and mucus in their mouths. In snakes, their forked tongues may stick together and they will raise their heads to breathe more clearly. This condition is very dangerous in colubrids, due to them having only one lung. If your animal shows any of these symptoms decrease the humidity and get to a vet a soon as possible. 

Lack of humidity can also be a problem for reptiles, especially during the shedding process. If levels are too low, animals will retain their shed. Stuck sheds (if not removed) can seriously impact your reptile. It can lead to loss of circulation resulting in lost limbs, skin infections and retained eye caps which can even result in blindness. 

To reduce the humidity levels there are many things a keeper can do:

• Add more vents to the enclosure
• Place a fan beside vents
• Use a smaller water bowl
• Change bedding

To increase the humidity:

• Use larger water bowl
• Mist the animals with a spray of water
• Add sphagnum moss to the inside of a hide

If you are concerned about humidity you can purchase a humidity reader and place it inside your reptile's enclosure. They are available in many different options and some can also read temperature. If you can, buy a digital one with a probe.

In conclusion here is a list of correct humidity levels for various reptiles. For species that vary, please speak to your vet or local reptile store. 

• Amphibians 60-95%
• Anoles 25-75%
• Boa's and Pythons 25-75%
• Garter Snakes 25-75%
• Green Iguanas 60-95%
• King/Milk Snakes 0-40%
• Monitors and Tegus (varies)
• Skinks (varies)
• Tortoises and Turtles (varies)
• Geckos (varies)

Here are a few useful links to other related posts
Heating
Cooling Reptiles Down
Shedding

My Favourite Morphs

This blog post is all about morphs and which of them are my favourites. With there being so many different colour variations and morphs available, it is difficult to choose what ones to add to the collection. I myself love royal pythons, leopard geckos and corn snakes for the amount of varieties available.

Genetics are important to some keepers when purchasing a reptile due to future breeding projects. For example, a two to three gene animal could produce more interesting babies than a single gene animal. Also snakes and lizards that have a higher number of genetics increase in value.

Royal Pythons

I myself prefer high contrast morphs when it comes to royal pythons. I love high yellows and oranges with black markings. I actually made a wish list the other day of ball pythons I would like to own using the World of Ball Pythons iPad app. I found myself writing out so many that I decided to be logical and pick what I would like to breed to my bumble bee male. This is what I came up with.

Butter Enchi

All Royal Python images are by World of Ball Pythons visit their page by clicking here

Firefly

Lemon Blast

Spinner Blast

Pin Stripe

Corn Snakes

When it comes to corn snakes, sadly I do not plan on breeding my two females although if I was planning on pairing corn snakes I would think about purchasing the following morphs because I like them and would find them interesting to work with.

Diffused Corn Snake

Gold Dust Corn Snake

Lavender Corn Snake

Sulfur Corn Snake

Leopard Geckos

I also have two leopard geckos and again I do not wish to breed them at present but would consider it in the future. Like corn snakes and royal pythons, leopard geckos are available in different morphs. They are also a popular pet and loved by both adults and children. My favourite leopard geckos are as follows.

Bold Stripe Leopard Gecko

Blizzard Leopard Gecko

Carrot Tail Leopard Gecko

Tangerine Leopard Gecko

Finally my last favourite morph is that of a reticulated python. Sadly due to the space needed to keep a retic, I would never keep one to breed or as a pet. However, after seeing a stunning morph by New England Reptile Distributors I had to add this to the list.

Orange Ghost Stripe Tiger by NERD

 

Fear of Snakes/Ophidiophobia

Ophidiophobia means fear of snakes whereas herpetophobia is a fear of reptiles in general and amphibians. The term phobia is an irrational fear that can sometimes be severe and effect peoples lives in many ways.

Care should be taken to gain an understanding of the severity of a persons phobia. For example, someone with ophidiophobia would find it difficult not only to see a live snake but also see pictures either on the television or Internet. Whereas others may only have a fear of venomous snakes. There are different levels of fear from being a little nervous to being terrified.  Having a fear of snakes is nothing to be ashamed of and almost one third of the world's population have a fear of snakes. I myself have a phobia of spiders and can't bare to be in the same room as one, I can just about look at a picture of one but this leaves me shaking. This may seem stupid to some people but to me, a house spider is terrifying. 

Scientists that have conducted a study have suggested that fear of snakes/reptiles has formed from evolution stretching back to a time when mammals had to survive and bare young in an environment dominated by reptiles.

 How do I beat my fear of snakes?

Research into snakes as there are lots of interesting facts about snakes. For example many snakes do not have venom nor get really big and also some snakes can't hiss. The best way to conduct research into these wonderful animals is: reading books, watching free videos online, documentaries and of course looking on the Internet. You have already made a start by viewing this blog all about snakes and reptiles even if it is only reading this article. Remember to take little steps or even try to set goals. 

Visit your zoo and visit the reptile section. Animals in zoos are used to small enclosures plus are generally domesticated. This is a great way to view the animals and not get too close.

Get to know someone who keeps snakes in your area. This is a great idea for wanting to overcome your fear. Most pet snakes are used to being around people and will not act aggressive. Many people own snakes and find that they make rewarding pets. If you happen to come across a wild snake, the animal will more than likely try to flee as they are shy and timed creatures.

It is probably more scared of you than you are of it! Snakes can show fear too. In fact they become frightened of sudden movements and will often shy away. Although if you try to run away from a snake, this may provoke it to strike. It is best to treat snakes as gently and kindly as possible.

Confront your fear, when you feel ready to face your fear, you could try and touch a snake's skin. They do not feel slimey and are soft to touch, in fact they can tickle! When you are then comfortable with the feeling of a snakes skin, you can then try holding one. It does not have to be a large snake or dangerous one. The first snake that I held was at my local reptile shop and was a baby python which was scary. After handling a snake you will ask yourself why was I scared. Just be aware that some snakes can move fast although speed will depend on what you decide to handle. Good luck and hopefully following these tips will help you to endure snakes.

For information about what snakes are really like click here

When Reptiles Get Too Hot

With a heat wave upon us it is vital to ensure that any animal will not be effected. I heard a sad story last week about someone loosing his reptiles because their enclosures were too warm. This made me sad because with the right equipment and proper care the loss could have been prevented. 

Temperature regulation in a heated enclosure is highly important and I can't recommend enough how important it is to use a thermostat or pulse stat. All reptile keepers should have one as it is a necessity and vital to the animal's well being. I use MicroClimate stats (ministat 100 mat stat and B2 pulse stat) for my reptiles. This ensures my heat mats do not exceed the temperature that is required. As far as I am aware, mat stats can be used for bulbs. Do not use pulse stats as these can blow the bulb. Alternatively to using a stat, you can put your bulb on a dimmer and lower the heat, and this can be used along with a mat stat if needed. However I recommend using a stat at all times.
 

• A mat stat is a thermostat that provides constant heat, although when reaching a certain point will turn off for a short period of time. They are the most common thermostat for first time owners and are not as expensive however they are not as accurate.
• A pulse stat is a type of thermostat that provides bursts of heat when needed. They are more accurate than mat stats and are popular with racks or for heating multiple reptiles assuming they need the same temperatures or thereabouts. 

B2 Microclimate

Microclimate Ministat

I would also recommend purchasing a digital thermometer and placing them in side the tank, one on the hot side and one on the cool side although these are not always accurate. Alternatively if you are more fussy, invest in a temperature gun. These measure an exact spot and are more precise. 

Always look for signs that your reptiles are overheated. For example spending lots of time in the water bowl when not in shed, about to lay eggs or have mites. Signs of a reptiles being over heated include, dehydration, skin abnormalities, lethargic, spending all their time in the cool side and soaking for long periods in the water bowl.

When temperatures reach 36°C this is when you should turn off your heat source and allow it to cool down. Also always ensure that you have not placed your reptiles in direct sun as this will increase the heat. Always remember that when keeping reptiles that its better to have them slightly too cold as reptiles can survive for longer when it is cooler. Too much heat is more dangerous and can kill a reptile within minutes.

Click here for information on heating 

Rhino Iguanas

Today's blog post is all about rhino iguanas. Rhinoceros iguanas are large lizards that can grow from anything between 24 to 54 inches in length and weigh up to 4.56 kilograms. They can be found living in the Caribbean Island of Hispaniola, shared by the Republic of Haiti and the Dominican Republic. Unlike snakes, these reptiles come in a limited variety of colours, that being gray, brown and green. They get their name from the bony-plated pseudo-horn that grows from their snouts. 

Rhino Iguana

Habitat

The rhino iguanas natural habitat is threatened by deforestation. They are found in Haiti, Dominian Republic and Hispaniola although their populations are only stable in Isla Beata and the extreme of the Barahona Peninsula inside Parque Nacional Jaragua. In the wild, there are estimated 10-16'000 left although in captivity, they are among the most common of the lizard species to be kept as a pet. 

Diet

Rhino iguanas are mostly herbivorous, eating vegetables and fruits, however, they are also opportunistic carnivores and will eat small lizards, snakes and insects. 

Cute Rhino Iguanas

Reproducing

Male rhino iguanas reach sexual maturity at 4-5 years old and females reach maturity at 2-3 years of age. Male rhino iguanas are territorial with the most aggressive males owning the larger territories. When the female lays her clutch, she will lay anything from 2 to 34 eggs, averaging 17 within a period of 40 days. The females will guard their nest for the incubation period which lasts approximately 85 days. From birth, these lizards are independent. 

Rhino Iguana Hatching

Captivity

Keeping a rhino iguana in captivity is an interesting idea. You will require a set up that will meet the rhino iguanas requirements as they grow to some 4.5 ft in length. Therefore, an enclosure of 6ft x 2ft x 2ft is the minimum requirements for an adult iguana although a larger vivarium needs to be considered. Since they originate from a tropical climate, humidity is important as well as moisture for when they are shedding. Place branches in their enclosures to give them something to climb on and to aid with the shedding process. 

If cared for, they will live for some 40 years. Their temperament varies but are naturally aggressive although with experienced handling, they may be tamed somewhat. I would only recommend these animals to those experienced with other types of iguana such as green iguanas.

Escape from Alcatank!

My normal gecko scared me last night as she decided to act like Houdini. At present she is in a divided wooden vivarium and after looking in her side of the tank last night I could not see her. I happened to check on the other side of the divider and found she had burrowed under the divider into the other side of the vivarium. After close inspection of the viv, I noticed a few small gaps that measured no more than 5mm under the divider and at the back where I made a slot for the heat mat. I was lucky that she did not escape out the back of her tank. Needless to say at 2am I had to block all gaps in the tank to stop further escape attempts with the help of aluminum tape. My lesson for the day is ensure that all vivariums have no gaps at all, apart from vents.

I will ensure in the future to write a post on how to find reptiles that have escaped and ways to ensure your vivariums and rubs are escape proof.

New addition

After getting my first leopard gecko a few weeks ago, I have completely fallen in love with the little creatures and I just had to get a second one. This time I decided to get a higher end morph and opted for a sunglow raptor (red eyed, albino. patternless, tiger, orange). After talking to the breeder I discovered that she could be a possible giant. I must admit I can't wait to find out.

Sunshine the new addition!

To view more information about, leopard geckos and my first leopard gecko click on the links. If you are like me and love all reptiles, have a look through all my previous posts, full of information and a variety of wonderful animals.