Saturday, 27 July 2013

When Reptiles Get Too Hot

With a heat wave upon us it is vital to ensure that any animal will not be effected. I heard a sad story last week about someone loosing his reptiles because their enclosures were too warm. This made me sad because with the right equipment and proper care the loss could have been prevented. 

Temperature regulation in a heated enclosure is highly important and I can't recommend enough how important it is to use a thermostat or pulse stat. All reptile keepers should have one as it is a necessity and vital to the animal's well being. I use MicroClimate stats (ministat 100 mat stat and B2 pulse stat) for my reptiles. This ensures my heat mats do not exceed the temperature that is required. As far as I am aware, mat stats can be used for bulbs. Do not use pulse stats as these can blow the bulb. Alternatively to using a stat, you can put your bulb on a dimmer and lower the heat, and this can be used along with a mat stat if needed. However I recommend using a stat at all times.
 
  • A mat stat is a thermostat that provides constant heat, although when reaching a certain point will turn off for a short period of time. They are the most common thermostat for first time owners and are not as expensive however they are not as accurate.
  • A pulse stat is a type of thermostat that provides bursts of heat when needed. They are more accurate than mat stats and are popular with racks or for heating multiple reptiles assuming they need the same temperatures or thereabouts. 
B2 Microclimate

Microclimate Ministat




































I would also recommend purchasing a digital thermometer and placing them in side the tank, one on the hot side and one on the cool side although these are not always accurate. Alternatively if you are more fussy, invest in a temperature gun. These measure an exact spot and are more precise. 

Always look for signs that your reptiles are overheated. For example spending lots of time in the water bowl when not in shed, about to lay eggs or have mites. Signs of a reptiles being over heated include, dehydration, skin abnormalities, lethargic, spending all their time in the cool side and soaking for long periods in the water bowl.

When temperatures reach 36°C this is when you should turn off your heat source and allow it to cool down. Also always ensure that you have not placed your reptiles in direct sun as this will increase the heat. Always remember that when keeping reptiles that its better to have them slightly too cold as reptiles can survive for longer when it is cooler. Too much heat is more dangerous and can kill a reptile within minutes.

Click here for information on heating 

Wednesday, 24 July 2013

Rhino Iguanas

Today's blog post is all about rhino iguanas. Rhinoceros iguanas are large lizards that can grow from anything between 24 to 54 inches in length and weigh up to 4.56 kilograms. They can be found living in the Caribbean Island of Hispaniola, shared by the Republic of Haiti and the Dominican Republic. Unlike snakes, these reptiles come in a limited variety of colours, that being gray, brown and green. They get their name from the bony-plated pseudo-horn that grows from their snouts. 

Rhino Iguana
















Habitat

The rhino iguanas natural habitat is threatened by deforestation. They are found in Haiti, Dominian Republic and Hispaniola although their populations are only stable in Isla Beata and the extreme of the Barahona Peninsula inside Parque Nacional Jaragua. In the wild, there are estimated 10-16'000 left although in captivity, they are among the most common of the lizard species to be kept as a pet. 

Diet

Rhino iguanas are mostly herbivorous, eating vegetables and fruits, however, they are also opportunistic carnivores and will eat small lizards, snakes and insects. 

Cute Rhino Iguanas














Reproducing

Male rhino iguanas reach sexual maturity at 4-5 years old and females reach maturity at 2-3 years of age. Male rhino iguanas are territorial with the most aggressive males owning the larger territories. When the female lays her clutch, she will lay anything from 2 to 34 eggs, averaging 17 within a period of 40 days. The females will guard their nest for the incubation period which lasts approximately 85 days. From birth, these lizards are independent. 

Rhino Iguana Hatching













Captivity

Keeping a rhino iguana in captivity is an interesting idea. You will require a set up that will meet the rhino iguanas requirements as they grow to some 4.5 ft in length. Therefore, an enclosure of 6ft x 2ft x 2ft is the minimum requirements for an adult iguana although a larger vivarium needs to be considered. Since they originate from a tropical climate, humidity is important as well as moisture for when they are shedding. Place branches in their enclosures to give them something to climb on and to aid with the shedding process. 

If cared for, they will live for some 40 years. Their temperament varies but are naturally aggressive although with experienced handling, they may be tamed somewhat. I would only recommend these animals to those experienced with other types of iguana such as green iguanas.


Sunday, 21 July 2013

Escape from Alcatank!

My normal gecko scared me last night as she decided to act like Houdini. At present she is in a divided wooden vivarium and after looking in her side of the tank last night I could not see her. I happened to check on the other side of the divider and found she had burrowed under the divider into the other side of the vivarium. After close inspection of the viv, I noticed a few small gaps that measured no more than 5mm under the divider and at the back where I made a slot for the heat mat. I was lucky that she did not escape out the back of her tank. Needless to say at 2am I had to block all gaps in the tank to stop further escape attempts with the help of aluminum tape. My lesson for the day is ensure that all vivariums have no gaps at all, apart from vents.

I will ensure in the future to write a post on how to find reptiles that have escaped and ways to ensure your vivariums and rubs are escape proof.




Saturday, 20 July 2013

New addition

After getting my first leopard gecko a few weeks ago, I have completely fallen in love with the little creatures and I just had to get a second one. This time I decided to get a higher end morph and opted for a sunglow raptor (red eyed, albino. patternless, tiger, orange). After talking to the breeder I discovered that she could be a possible giant. I must admit I can't wait to find out.


Sunshine the new addition!





















To view more information about, leopard geckos and my first leopard gecko click on the links. If you are like me and love all reptiles, have a look through all my previous posts, full of information and a variety of wonderful animals.

Friday, 19 July 2013

El Salvador Boas

Today's post is about El Salvador Boas. After holding one of these beautiful animals I thought I would research and write about them. The great thing about this type of boa is the fact that they do not grow too big as they are a type of dwarf boa and are quite active. El Salvador Boas would be perfect for keepers that don't want a sand boa as they hide all the time and also for those who don't want a large snake.

El Salvador Boas live between the evergreen rainforest and the savannah belt in Central America. The snakes thrives in subtropical climates with high temperatures of 30° C with nighttime temperatures of 16° C. As for length they can slightly exceed 4.9ft although this is not common. Humidity should be 55% although can be increased to 70% when the animal is in shed.



El Salvador Boa



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Size


It is important to ensure that you buy El Salvador Boas from a reputable seller to ensure the bloodline is pure as these boas can be cross-bred and if that is the case a buyer can end up with a much larger animal than they expected. This type of snake makes a good animal to keep as a pet due to their small size and docile temperament. They also feed well which is always a good thing. I myself would love to add one of these snakes to my collection one day and I would recommend them for a first time snake keeper.

Housing


When it comes to housing, size is important as this can effect the health of your animal. Generally El Salvador boas would need a 3ft by 2ft enclosure. They also require a warm and cold hide, water dish at all times and substrate. Heating is also essential and this can be achieved using either a heat mat or ceramic bulb which should be set to 30° C with a thermostat. 




El Salvador Boa




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Feeding

Feeding is a large part of keeping reptiles and this type of snake feeds on rats of appropriate size. When selecting prey items for your snake, ensure that it is no bigger than 1.5 times the width of the snake. Generally an adult snake would eat a frozen thawed rodent once every 7 to 10 days.

Shedding

Boas generally have few problems when shedding their skin. To help the shedding process (if your snake is having difficulty) you can increase the humidity in the tank to 70% by adding sphagnum moss and or spraying the snake with clean, fresh water. It is best to start increasing the humidity when your animal goes into the blue phase. You can also increase the size of the water bowl. Problem sheds can also be eased off by allowing the snake to soak in a luke warm bath for 10-15 minutes.




El Salvador Boa


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Morphs

The colours of this snake are not as varied as other snakes such as royal pythons. El Salvador's are greyish, brown in colour and have a considerable number of saddle patches that fuse together on it's body. Their tails are rusty brown and a similar patch is often found on the animals neck.

Further links of interest may include the Boidae family.

Thursday, 11 July 2013

Records and Free Record Sheet

When keeping reptiles, I find that it is extremely important to keep records. This is a great way to see if your animal is healthy and gaining weight. The records I keep for my animals are date of feed, weight, date of shed, tank cleans, length and girth. 

To make this task simple and easy to do at home, I have created a table in jpg format. All you need to do is print it and start recording data. Originally I was going to update a PDF file but for some reason Blogger will not allow me.






To save this chart: click on the images and when they show, right click and save as. After saving you will be able to print these.


Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Useful Websites

With technology improving and growing constantly, using the Internet for research is a great way to learn and free too. There are many great websites about reptiles and more being added daily, so today's post is about how technology is helping reptile keepers worldwide and what sites I have found to be most helpful.

I personally use Facebook all the time and have joined some really good group pages to connect with other reptile keepers. Not only are the groups a great way to learn about all the different reptiles available but also allow keepers to share their experiences and tips.They are also a great way to meet new people and make new friends. Here are a few useful Facebook links to various groups:

We're Talking Balls
We're Talking Boas
We're Talking Lizards
Corn Snake Owners Worldwide 
Reptile Community 
Reptile Forums UK 
Ireland Reptile Auction


Facebook is not the only place to discuss reptiles, there are also many good online forums packed with users ready to help and give advice about these fantastic animals. I have found forums helpful in the past and here are a few good ones that I have found online.


Alongside social networking and forums, there are many other great reptile sites that can be used for sourcing equipment to finding reptile breeders. I shall now list a few sites that I have found helpful. Don't forget to add your own links below and if I like your site I will add it to the list. As I am based in Belfast, Northern Ireland, some of the sites I will be listing are local to my area. 


Care sheets can also be very helpful when keeping a reptile, they can help you to care properly for you reptile and can include useful information on housing and feeding schedules. 




 




Saturday, 6 July 2013

Caiman

Another wonderful reptile is that of caiman and today's post is all about the river dwelling creatures. They are carnivorous and part of the alligatorid crocodylians family, found near Central and South America. They range from 3 ft in length to an large 13 ft long. Although some people consider caiman as crocodiles, they are actually related more closely to alligators.

Adult Caiman
















Females can lay between 20-65 eggs on average per clutch. Like most crocodylians, caiman create a mound to lay their eggs in. The mother will guard the eggs even if it means going without food for several months. Mother caimans take care of their young even after they hatch. She will guard them and help them hatch if they are struggling to break through their shell. Furthermore, she will carry them from the nesting mound to the 'nursery' pool where she will care for not just her own, but other caiman young. Out of all of the reptile species, caiman share the most mothering characteristics when it comes to caring for their young. They are also very careful and gentle with their jaws when they need to be. 

Baby Caiman














As they are carnivorous, expect their prey to be large. In the wild, their diet is that of  fish and amphibians as juveniles, becoming larger amphibians, reptiles and mammals as they grow.

The topic of crocodylians as pets is quite controversial. As babies, they are deceptive as they are small and appear harmless. This makes them easy for someone to sell to unsuspecting buyers. After around a year, their behaviour will become more boisterous and usually leads to the owner releasing the animal into the wild or killing it. Those who  are serious about caring for one of these dangerous reptiles should think seriously about this decision. They are not naturally a tame animal and can bite and kill, although some can be 'trained' to be calmer than their more wild counterparts. The key with caiman and other alligators and crocodiles is to never ever drop your guard.

Caiman Require Amphibious Surroundings













Personally I would never think of keeping one. The risk outweighs the rewards for me but I respect anyone who can properly look after and care for these magnificent animals. As always, a DWA is required to keep one of these.

There are some websites that sell crocodylian species- some are well respected and ask for a copy of your DWA license before they sell you anything and others are irresponsible  and will sell them to anyone, which is an utter disgrace! If you do decide to get one, ensure you do a LOT of research and ensure that you are capable of keeping and caring for these animals.