Happy Holidays

From all at Miss L Reptile, we hope all your reptile wishes come true this year! Thank you to everyone who reads this blog, hope you enjoyed the experience and come back in the new year. All the positive comments makes all the hard work and research worth while.

Bumblebee Ball Python

Bumblebee Royal Python

Blaze the Bumblebee

Penny Pinstripe Royal Python

Penny Pinstripe Ball Python

Early Christmas Present

You guessed right, I finally got another addition! I think at this rate it will never end! I am now on snake number six and reptile number eight. After all, one does not simply buy one reptile!

We have named the new snake Flora as she is a butter royal python that we hope will be a future breeder for our bumblebee. She is settling in well and even accepted a feed the day after we collected her.The cutie was bred by Mike Wilbanks and purchased in Hamm, Germany by Eddie at Reptile Hunter. 

Flora

Flora

In other news: I have also took reptile keeping even further by getting my first reptile ink. Due to having type one diabetes, my new tattoo is of a leopard gecko holding a type one diabetes ribbon.

New Ink

Male Royal Python Ready to Breed Before Female?

At the moment I have a male ball python that is ready to breed although, my female is still too young and nowhere near the correct breeding weight of 1500g. After conducting much research online and talking to various breeders I have discovered that it's important not to let males get overweight, especially if one is looking to produce good fertile eggs.

At present moment in time, my male is sitting at 700g. This means that he is ready to breed and putting on weight rapidly. This is a bit of a problem as my female needs to wait at least another two years before I could consider breeding. This poses a problem as males can become more lazy and not produce good quality sperm when over 1200g.

Large Ball Python

This means that I will have to either purchase a female that is breeding weight or change the feeding routine of the male. Due to lack of space I have decided to opt for a different feeding routine. When the male reaches 1000g I will switch to a smaller size feeding item every second week whilst keeping the normal size prey. By doing so, I hope to achieve a balanced weight of around 1100g without it declining or increasing majorly. Furthermore, if he does fast there is plenty of fat reserves to sustain him for a good few months as we all know royal pythons can be picky!

Brumation

There is conflicting advice regarding if brumation is beneficial for your reptiles. If you do not know already about brumation and what it means, please have a look at the next section of this post.

Brumation - What is it?

Brumation is the process of which reptiles undergo during the winter months in the natural environment. It involves the reptile becoming more slow with their movements in order to conserve energy to survive. Reptiles, being cold blooded, require heat in order to be active, so if there is very little heat, they won't move about as much. Furthermore, they will go off their food in order to clear out their stomachs for the brumation period. This is logical as you do not want rotting food in their digestive system. 

If brumating, you will want to gradually drop the temperature over around a month. Do NOT suddenly drop the temperatures as this can kill your animal. Please refer to the temperature section of this post to find out about what temperature should be at the end of this month. Same rule after brumation- gradually raise the temperature back up to what it normally is over the course of one month or so.

After the brumation period, reptiles such as royal pythons tend to go back on their food (quite heavily) before searching for a mate. Following mating, the female will form and lay the eggs which uses the animal's fat reserves. This is why they feed heavily after brumation. In captivity, some breeders lower the temperatures for their breeding reptiles in order to trigger the brumation response. The belief is that by brumating the reptiles, they will lay more eggs and are more fertile compared to the reptiles that breed and do not undergo brumation, although this is disputed by other breeders who do not brumate their reptiles and produce fertile, healthy animals. 

Reptiles can undergo brumation by themselves, even if the temperature is not low enough in their enclosure. The most common signals are refusing feed and sleeping more/slowing down (becoming more lethargic). They also may spend more time on the cool end of the enclosure.

Brumation Temperature

The ambient temperature for brumation to be successful is generally around the 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit mark (4-10 degrees Celsius).   When I first found this out, I was shocked that it was so low but don't forget- in the wild, reptiles would borrow underground to seek this heat as the ambients above ground may be in the minuses. 

Pros of Brumating

It is commonly recognised that brumation increases the probability of fertility in breeding, although further scientific evidence is required to ultimately prove this theory.

By brumating your reptile, you are replicating their natural environment.

Brumation also helps by giving the reptile's digestive system a break. 

It may contribute to fighting obesity in reptiles.

Cons of Brumating

If temperatures are not kept accurate, aka they fall too low, your reptile(s) may suffer health problems and even worse- die.

It may cause respiratory illness (RI) due to low ambient temperatures. This can lead to painful treatment and high vet bills.

Conclusion

I can see the benefits of brumation, however, I would not personally brumate my reptiles unless they undergo it naturally themselves. If you are keeping your reptiles as pets only and don't plan on breeding, my advice would be to refrain from brumating as it is not necessary. If you are breeding them and want a better success rate, I would suggest brumation but do more research on the process of brumating your particular reptile. 

Keeping Reptiles Warm In Winter - Ambient Temperatures

If you are worried about what the winter may bring for your reptiles regarding ambient temperatures, this post is for you.

Let me start by saying everyone is different when it comes to what they consider as 'acceptable ambient temperature' but I would say that it is generally practiced that around 70 Fahrenheit (20 Celsius) is the minimum that you should keep the ambient temperatures, assuming you're not brumating your reptiles. Ensure that your hot spot is what it should be and there is a clear temperature gradient throughout your reptiles' enclosures.

For more information on the various types of heating, please refer to my heating reptiles post.

During a power cut, it is very helpful to have a backup heat source. Some people have generators that they can use in case of a power cut but others do not have the privileges for a generator (I being one of them). Instead, I stock up on heat packs. These are packs that come in a variety of sizes which when opened, begin to heat up. They take a while to heat but they last some 12 hours or so. Usually, these heat packs are used when transporting reptiles. Please note, I use these as my reptiles are not huge. If you have a large reptile such as a burmese python, you will most likely need a generator if your electric cuts out for a long period of time. Alternatively, you can keep your reptiles warm for a short period of time by using your body heat. Place your reptile in a pillow case and hold them close to your body. The pillow case will allow air flow and will keep them from exploring around your room.

Remember to keep checking your animals throughout the cold snap to ensure they are eating, drinking, shedding, excreting and behaving as normal. I tend to handle my reptiles less during the winter as the ambients are not as high as what they are during the summer months.

My New Addition Mauve

Recently I was contacted by a local breeder who had a ball python that was unable to breed. There is also a small bump on the python's nose. The breeder explained that the royal needs a good loving and caring home, so my partner and I decided to take him on and keep him as a pet to ensure that he will be well cared for. We have named the python Mauve as he is a Mojave and it fits with our name by colour scheme theme although I know he is not purple.

He is currently the largest ball python weighing in at 950 grams (approximately). Mauve seems to be settling in well and adjusting to his new environment. He seems to enjoy being handled and is continuously attempting a breakout from his enclosure.

I must admit, it feels rewarding to take in and care for an animal that is healthy but no one else may want due to it having slight problems with looks and or breeding. I hate the fact that some people would go as far as to euthanize such animals and that breaks my heart when they can have a good home and be loved.  

This is Mauve, the special little guy.

Mojave ball python.

Escaped Reptiles

One of the most important factors when keeping a reptile is housing. I'm not talking about heating, decor, bedding or lighting, but the fact your animal requires an escape proof enclosure. Reptiles are natural escape artists and will use any gap big enough to their advantage. It's vital to ensure that if your housing has any gaps, that your animal can't fit through them. It's also important to have locks on vivariums, although always remember that vents and very small drilled holes will be needed for a steady flow of air. 

When it comes to ensuring that my reptiles are secure, I have locks fitted to both my vivarium and rack system. I always check that the locks are correctly in place after handling and maintenance. My motto is "close it, lock it, check it." I have also sealed any large gaps which, could be used as an escape route. I learned this the hard way, after one of my leopard geckos got under a gap in a tank divider. I also was lucky at the time to notice that there was also a gap at the back of the tank. Luckily the Leo had not discovered it. The gaps did not appear large enough for her to get out off, so be prepared to be shocked at what great escape artists they make!

Vivarium lock, available from most pet shops

Fitted vivarium lock

This would be a more important factor when dealing with venomous reptiles as the rules on their housing is different to that of non "hot" animals. It is highly recommended that all venomous animals should have a locked enclosure at all times, bar during feeding or maintaining their housing. They should be housed in a secure non-tip vivarium and furthermore, the reptiles should be kept in a secure room with two doors in case of escape. The room has to be designed to contain an escaped animal without posing a threat to the public. Don't forget: in the UK, it is illegal to keep any venomous reptile without acquiring a DWA license. 

HOW TO FIND ESCAPED ANIMALS

This really depends on where the reptile escaped from, for example if it was in your house or during transportation.

The first place to look would be anywhere warm as reptiles need heat to control their temperatures. I have heard of cases when an escaped animal has been found at the back of a television, fridge, computer, anything that gives off heat. If this method is not successful, the next option is checking any place that would make a good and secure hide, under tight spaces or places they are able to climb: for example, inside a wardrobe or chest of open drawers. If this is still not successful, you could try putting flour across door ways as this could let you see what room the reptile is in if they move from room to room. The other trick is put down newspaper and see if you can hear the animal moving through it at night, if it is a nocturnal species.

Don't sit back and let this happen. Check all locks!

Another option would be to purchase and set a minnow trap. This is a type of square cage with a funnel at either end. They are designed to enclose the animal and prevent them from finding a way out. Always make sure the trap is the correct size for your reptile as avoiding injury or death is vital for the safety of your animal. To set the trap I recommend using soiled rodent bedding as this will incite snakes into the trap. I am not sure if this method would be suitable for lizards as it may cause some species to drop their tail due to stress. 

Another possible way to catch a lizard is to set up a basking spot and the lizard may use it during the day. In most cases, the animal will not travel further than the room that it was housed in so check the room thoroughly. Everywhere mentioned above and under furniture, in side of shoes, on top of curtains any place you can think of.

Doncaster September 2013 Reptile Show

I was looking to do this post a bit earlier although I have been poorly lately, therefore have not been near a computer. This post is all about the International Herpetology Society's annual show, which took place on September 22nd at Doncaster Race Course.

This is the first reptile show that I have attended and I must say I enjoyed it, although traveling from Belfast and being a passenger in a full car for a 500 mile drive was exhausting but hey it was all worth it to see lot's of wonderful animals. Bearded dragons, leopard geckos, royal pythons and boa constrictors were the most common.

The show itself is designed for breeders to sell live stock to other breeders and the public. Not only livestock was available but various equipment and vivarium decorations, vivariums and even rack systems. There was something available for everyone.

I was lucky to have the opportunity to see some wonderful and unique colour mutations and morphs. One of my favourite animals at the show was a killer bumblebee ball python. I am a huge fan of ball pythons and especially bees. I also seen some beautiful leopard geckos from hypos to patternless albinos. Sadly I never purchased any live stock, as in the near future I am acquiring two more ball pythons and don't have the room for anything else.

The highlight of the show for me was visiting the guys from The Reptile Room. The guys at the stall were so friendly, approachable and easy to talk to. I would also like to say a massive thank you to the guys at The Reptile Room for letting me take the following photographs of their animals they had on display.

Reticulated Python

Reticulated Python

Reticulated Python

Reticulated Python

Reticulated Python

Reticulated Python

Leopard Gecko

Leopard Gecko

Leopard Gecko

My partner holding a Leopard Gecko

Leopard Gecko

 

Can't Get Enough of Rhino Iguanas!

I had one of the best days ever at my local reptile shop in Belfast. I'm sure a lot of people would think that's crazy but some of my happiest memories are of being around reptiles and other herpetologists. I have talked about my experiences regarding these wonderful cold blooded creatures in many of my posts and how I feel lucky to have interacted with them, but today tops it. 

A year ago my favourite reptile shop, Reptile NI, closed down and I was deeply saddened as I fell in love with one of their animals, in fact their mascot: a rhino iguana. I always wanted to see him every time I was in the shop as I found him adorable. Sadly I was too shy and scared to interact with him due to his size and my lack of reptile experience. When the shop closed I was deeply saddened as I got two wonderful corn snakes from them and loved going in to speak to the staff, and of course to see the rhino iguana. 

A few months ago Reptile Hunter opened and Saddam, the wonderful rhino iguana, was back in the new shop and I was so happy to see him again. After having more experience with reptiles and getting to know the shop owner, today I was able to have the rare opportunity to hold such a magnificent creature. What can I say, other than I feel lucky and hope one day to be able to keep such a beautiful and impressive animal. After a year of admiring him and being a little scared to hold him, I finally did it. 

If you are ever in Belfast, I recommend that you call into Reptile Hunters. The staff are lovely and animals will leave a major impression! Visit Reptile Hunters Facebook.

Myself and Saddam!

                                                                                    

My partner and I with Saddam

Now that's what I call a lizard!

Have a look at this video of the same iguana as shown above! 

Captive Bred vs Wild Caught

Today my blog post will be about what animals are better to keep and work with: whether it is captive bred or wild caught. This is a controversial topic depending on who you talk to. After all the very first reptiles had to be wild caught for us to be able to breed them in captivity.

In the reptile market around 90-95% of animals have been bred in captivity and these animals are more sought after due to their selective breeding. Consumers are looking for animals that are not very defensive and aggressive, can be housed with ease and have hardy nature and are bright coloured and attractive. This is generally achieved when selectively bred.

Wild Caught

Wild caught animals, are generally more aggressive/defensive and can be harder to house. They also are more easily stressed with being transported and housed in small enclosures. The biggest draw back from dealing with a wild caught animal and introducing it into the pet trade is the fact that they carry more parasites and worms. This can lead to very poorly animals and huge veterinary bills. It is also vital to quarantine such animals from others to prevent further problems.

Bare in mind that without wild caught, there would be no reptile industry and we would not be able to keep such wonderful and rewarding pets. Without scientists, zoos and industry breeders we would not be able to keep chameleons as they were seen as impossible to keep and furthermore crested geckos were know to be extinct. Perhaps without working with wild caught animals and extensive breeding programs, animals like the crested gecko would be extinct. 

There is no doubt that wild caught animals do suffer stress when being captured and some may die during transportation. I am not qualified to discuss the right and wrong in this and philosophy human contact with animals and the need to have animals as companions but as long as the animal is healthy and being cared for that is all I wish to discuss. I do not wish to get into a debate with animal right campaigners.

 

Conclusion

In conclusion, captive bred animals would not exist without animals being wild caught, although it is better to research into the animal that you are intending to purchase and find out if it has been captive bred or wild caught. I would highly recommend ensuring that your animal is captive bred unless you have expertise in working with and housing wild caught animals and ensure you can take them to a vet that works with reptiles as soon as possible to check for parasites and other problems. I myself would only purchase an animal that has been bred and born in captivity.

To read more information on the topic click here

Reptile Shows UK / Europe

Reptile expeditions are a great source for going to see lots of wonderful animals and for meeting breeders that have a passion for the hobby. If you are a fan of reptiles, such shows are worth going to.

I am privileged to be going to the IHS show in Doncaster England next Sunday.  This will be the first reptile show that I have ever been to, therefore I have no idea what to expect and I'm very excited. The only part I am not looking forward to is traveling as I am based in Belfast so it will be a long day and 500 mile drive! Will I be purchasing any reptiles that day? I have no idea as I'm looking to get a pinstripe ball python from a local breeder soon. You guys and girls will have to stay tuned and keep reading my blog to find out. I will also be posting on Facebook about the show and what wonderful animals I have seen.

Last weekend was the date for one of the biggest reptile expeditions in Europe and if not worldwide which was in Hamburg Germany. At the show there were many animals on offer from famous breeders worldwide. This included various royal pythons, lizards, colubrids and venomous reptiles. Furthermore, also available is an array of equipment and dry goods.

The next large reptile show following Doncaster, is on December the 1st 2013 in Houten Holland. For a list of shows and events please click here For reptile enthusiasts in the USA click here

Picture of myself holding an albino Burmese python

Reptile Myths Busted Part 1

Due to the misconception regarding reptiles, I thought that for a few upcoming posts, I will write about various myths surrounding reptiles and what the truth is behind the myths. Hopefully the articles will allow people to see how wonderful reptiles are and how rewarding working with or keeping them as pets can be.

Myth 1: Are snakes slimy?

The answer to that is no, snakes are not slimy. In fact they are dry and soft to touch and can be a joy to handle. They do not feel like eels and other likewise creatures. I myself love handling snakes and find that they can sometimes tickle when you hold them!

The misconception that snakes are slimy comes from the fact their scales are iridescent and this makes them appear wet and slippery. The only time that a snake may feel sticky is during the shedding process as the animal releases a secretion under their old scales to help them slide of the skin more smoothly. 

Snakes skin is made up of the protein keratin, this is the same material that makes up human hair and nails! 

Snake Scales

Myth 2: Why does that snake not bite you?

Snakes normally do not attack people without good reason. They normally strike because of two reasons: to defend it's self when threatened and to a feeding response. It also depends on the breed of snake as some are naturally more aggressive than others. Others simply seem to enjoy handling.

Other reptiles eventually get conditioned and tolerate handling. It's also important to always respect the animal and be as gentle as possible. If you are handling a snake aggressively this may provoke a defensive strike. The difference between a defensive strike and a feeding response is: If the snake strikes quickly and lets go, it's probably a defensive strike. If the snake bites down and will not let go, this is normally due to a feeding response. Although this may not always be accurate, for example venomous snakes will bite and let go due to both reasons. Although venomous snakes should ONLY be handled by trained individuals.

The keeper of the snake will understand the animal and know when their animal is not in the mood to be handled. If the snake is showing signs of aggression or distress then it is better left alone. I myself have experienced this with my royal python.

Myth 3: Can a snake hurt you with it's tongue? Can it envenom you by licking?

The answer to this myth is no, their is no way any snake can hurt you with it's tongue alone weather the snake is venomous or not! For venom to work it has to be injected to reach the blood stream through the animals needle like fangs, although some snakes can spit venom by ejecting it from their fangs.

Snake venom works by immobilising prey whilst also aiding the snake to digest it's meal. The venom is made via the animals venom glands that are located behind the eyes or on either side of the head. The glands work by storing venom in the alveoli before being conveyed to a duct at the base of the fangs, allowing the snake to inject or spit.

There are many different types of toxins carried in the venom which work in a number of ways. Neurotoxins, cytotoxins and hemotoxins  are most common. Neurotoxins work by attacking the nervous system and the brain. Hemotoxin induces swelling, cardiovascular damage, and eventual necrosis. It also effects the functionality of blood and other body tissues. Cytotxins attack immune cells and can cause necrosis. Necrosis can induce patients to lose membrane and shut down metabolism.

For more information on venomous reptiles click here

Snake Venom

Myth 4: When a snake stretches out beside me is it going to eat me?  

The short answer is no, it is not sizing you up to eat you. Snakes prey depend primarily on the girth of the prey compared to the girth of the snake as they can consume food 1.5 times their girth. Most likely reason for a snake stretching out beside you would be to acquire heat radiating from your body. You will find that people will say something like "My snake tried to eat me because it laid next to me" but if you think about it, when you feed a snake it doesn't stretch itself out beside the rodent, measuring it. 

Burmese Python with a Child

Myth 5: Do snakes kill people for fun?

I have never encountered a situation in which this has been documented. Snakes do not kill for sport or for fun. Like most animals, snakes only kill when they are hungry and it will be prey of appropriate size. For example, a snake wouldn't kill a fully grown elephant for obvious reasons. If a snake feels threatened, it will either try to shy away or strike out of fear, not because they find it fun to do so. Snakes, as cold blooded animals, need to conserve as much energy as possible, therefore they would not attack as long as they are not provoked.

Loads of Snakes!