Back to Nature Substrate Review

When keeping reptiles, it can be difficult to find a substrate that suits your animals needs and meets your standards. I have used many different types of bedding including: newspaper, aspen and kitchen towels but all of which have flaws.

• Newspaper does not soak up liquids well and leaves humidity high if there is a spillage. Furthermore newspaper is not aesthetically pleasing, although it retains heat well and is cheap.


• Aspen can be quite dusty and messy, although it soaks up liquids moderately well. The biggest problem with using aspen is the risk of impaction if your animals are fed in the enclosure. 


• Kitchen towels are good for animals like geckos and are very economical. They soak up moisture well depending on the amount of layers that you use. Heating works well with this type of bedding. It's not aesthetically pleasing and will need replaced in multiple sheets when it is soiled.

Recently I was recommended a new bedding to try by my local reptile shop called Back to Nature Animal Bedding. Made from recycled materials and biodegradable, it is made of small paper pellets that are grey in colour. It is designed to minimise odour and absorb liquids whilst retaining heat and humidity. The product's packaging is made of paper and reduces carbon footprint. It can also be used for small animals and not just reptiles.

Snowy enjoying her new bedding!

After using the product I am very happy with it as it does what it says on the packet. There is less risk of impaction as the product is biodegradable. It is more economical than aspen and other wood chip beddings. It's easy on the eye and almost looks like small stones. What has sold me most is the fact that it is easy to spot when the reptile has defecated, as it clumps together, making the clean up simple. Due to the dark colour it makes brighter morphs stand out and appear even more attractive than other bedding. I highly recommend giving it a try. To read more click here

Spotting a Fraud

With reptiles becoming more popular, it is now an industry that is worth thousands if not millions of pounds, with many animals sold and bought worldwide. Sadly with any trade, there are fraudulent sellers out there and this post is about how to spot them. Always ensure that you purchase from a reputable seller.

One of the most commonly used frauds is morphs. This can be as subtle as saying an animal is het when this is not so, to claiming an animal is a specific species when it's entirely different. The sex of the snake may be listed as female when they are male, as generally females are worth more money.

Here are a few pointers of what to watch out for and are common on auction sites, social media and free listing sites. Trust me, I have seen a few shocking ones myself.

• Het Banana Ball Python - The banana morph is not recessive and cannot be het.
• Dinkers (a normal morph that looks slightly different) - Some people claim to have dinkers to increase the value of a normal morph.
• Sometimes morphs get renamed in order to achieve more money. Ensure you research into what you are purchasing before you buy it.
• Sometimes a seller will be desperate to get rid of a large number of off spring. An unsuspecting customer may want to buy a dwarf boa and end up with a green anaconda.
• Lying about how large and animal gets too for example, a burmese python grows to 4ft, when in fact they can grow up to 20+ft.
• Another con is, the reptile will not outgrow a small tank. This is rubbish, reptiles will need their enclosures upgraded throughout their life time, depending on what you purchase.
• The most extreme case that I have heard of is a venomous snake being sold to a youngster as a safe species.

Banana ball python

The best way to spot a fraudulent sellers is to research into reptiles as much as possible, especially those that you are interested in. Always ask the person that you are buying from loads of questions. Don't be afraid of putting them on the spot as a genuine seller would be used to it. Ask to see the snakes records, sometimes these can be faked and hard to spot when they have been, although it's always a good idea to ask. Refrain from using action sites unless it's from a reputable seller. If the seller is rushing you then something is up. My rule of thumb is; if it's too good to be true, then it probably is.

Cohabiting Reptiles

In this post, I will be covering the controversial topic of cohabiting reptiles and the effects it can induce on the animals.

It is important to research each animal thoroughly before thinking of cohabiting as some species are cannibalistic and cannot be housed together. Others may fight or bully cage mates and cause serious injury or even death. This generally happens when two males are housed together although females not getting along is not uncommon.

If you have no other choice and need to house two reptiles in the same enclosure, then a set of rules must be followed carefully to avoid unnecessary risks to your animal.

• Never feed snakes in the same enclosure, feed them separately outside of the vivarium. Furthermore, keep the snakes away from each other for twelve hours as this is when the feeding response and digesting will subside. Be aware that if you feed them in the vivarium together, a hungry snake will not pay attention to what it is eating and could lead to one animal trying to eat the other. For extra security you may wish to gently rub each snake down with a damp, luke warm towel before returning to their enclosure to erase the scent of rodents.
• Ensure that you are providing enough comfortable hiding spots, preferably two of everything; two warm hides, two cool hides and multiple basking spots. The animals will need enough space to avoid each other if they so wish as they will compete for dominance and prime spots. Just think back to when you had to share a loved toy with a sibling, it was not a comfortable feeling!

Carpet python

Housing two animals together is not how the snake would behave in the wild. Snakes are not social animals and curling up together does not mean that they are enjoying the company. This generally means one is attempting to dominate the other- with the dominant one being on the bottom if you have a heat mat or on top if you have ceramic heating from above. Remember you will also need to ensure that both animals are the same size as keeping a small animal with a larger one can trigger the feeding response. 

When it comes to cohabiting lizards such as leopard geckos, attention should be paid to the size of your tank, how many hides you have, and other husbandry issues. Also make sure that you are present at feeding times to ensure that each gecko is getting the correct amount of food. Leopard geckos can bully each other and one may not allow the other to have any food. As with snakes, check that the lizards are the same size before introducing them to the same enclosure.

When introducing a new animal into to an already established vivarium, you will need to take out the resident animal and clean the housing thoroughly to rid it of any scents and make it neutral. Then introduce the animals in a neutral zone, such as the bed. This is a good way to observe how they behave and if they will get along.

Leopard geckos

Now that we know the basics, lets explore a more controversial topic that is 'housing entirely different species together'. I personally would never consider this as there are too many risks involved and I would not put my animals through it. Although I have seen cases where this has occurred and for some people have even worked. This post is designed to inform people of risks involved with cohabiting and it is not my intention to offend anyone.

• Two species in the same climate will have different needs to thrive, whether this is humidity, temperature, substrate and general husbandry. Although these issues may not effect the animal straight away they may cause problems down the line.
• In the wild, the two species may never meet and this may heighten to fighting among vivarium occupants. This can be a major issue with the same species of animals  never mind mixed species. Larger animals may prey on smaller cage mates. They may also fight for the best hiding and basking spots.
• Cross-contamination. All living creatures carry unique bacteria called protozoans and what may be harmless to one reptile can be harmful to others, resulting in illness and spreading of infection and parasites.
• Nocturnal and diurnal species may stress each other out, when one is sleeping the other may disturb it.
• Reptiles are generally solitary and territorial so do not appreciate sharing space.

Reticulated python and green anaconda

Some herpetologists may have success with mixing species and cohabiting although this decision should never be made lightly or for the sole reason of saving space. The welfare of the animal should be put first. In most cases the animals should be kept individually as most reptiles do not show signs of sickness and stress until it is too late.

For further information click here

Venom Explained

Venomous reptiles in captivity will be the topic I am covering in this post. One of the main debates regards the risk outweighing the rewards, as one bite can end your life. In this post, I will talk about the various venom groups and touch on some of the important facts that you are required to know regarding keeping venomous reptiles.

Several countries have laws and regulations that relate to the keeping dangerous animals in captivity. Owners require a DWA (Dangerous Wild Animal) license in order to legally keep them. Other countries do not enforce this law and therefore you do not need a license in order to keep venomous reptiles.

In order to apply for a DWAL, you will need to enquire with your local council, as it is they who supply the license. You must be 18 or over to apply and a fee may be enforced. Please contact your local authority if you wish to find out more information.

Back to the main topic; venom. How many types of venom are there in reptiles?  The answer is- there are a lot, but they fall under three main types.

NEUROTOXIC

This type of venom attacks the victim’s nervous system, causing suffocation by paralysing the respiratory system. This is quite common amongst elapids such as cobras.

King Cobra

CYTOTOXIC

Accounting for around 80% of all venomous bites, this toxin damages the tissue and causes necrosis. Death occurs by severe necrosis or blood loss. This venom is usually found in vipers (such as rattlesnakes) and causes swelling with pain.

Rattlesnake

HEMOTOXIC

Hemotoxins attack blood vessels, disrupt blood clotting, and causes organ degeneration with blood loss. This is usually found in snakes such as boomslangs and within the viperidae family. Although there is no immediate pain, it still remains deadly venom.

Boomslang

If you are not used to studying reptiles (especially snakes as they are the most venomous in regards to species within the reptile family), then it is next to impossible to spot a venomous snake just by appearance. There are a few that are infamous such as cobras with their distinct hood, and rattlesnakes that rattle their tail. However, some are not so easy to spot such as a mamba as they can be confused with non-venomous snakes. Therefore it is important not to approach an unidentified snake species in the wild.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, of the 7,000 - 8,000 people bitten by venomous snakes in America every year, only 5 die. This rate is higher in areas that medical care is less accessible such as parts of Africa and Asia. This may sound high but when you compare it to dog bites per year, in America, there are 4.5 million dog bites with twenty percent of those requiring medical attention. 

Green Mamba

When kept in captivity, there are certain rules you must follow when keeping a venomous snake. Most importantly, always use a snake hook to handle your snake. This allows you to control the animal without it being too close to you. If the snake is very long, use two snake hooks to manipulate the snake so it does not get a chance to bite you and also does not escape.

When it comes to venomous lizards, there are not many candidates. Gila monsters and beaded dragons are the only ones that you could keep as a pet (with a DWA license of course). The Komodo Dragon is also venomous although keeping one of them is by far – too dangerous. Lizards such as the Gila Monster grind their venom into the wounds of their prey, increasing the amount in the victim’s bloodstream. Furthermore, their venom is produced in their lower jaw as opposed to snakes that produce their venom in their upper jaws. 

Gila Monster

Not everything regarding venom is negative from a human point of view. Research into the medicinal properties of venom have achieved some promising results that can potentially help with diseases such as type 2 diabetes, Alzheimer’s, schizophrenia, and ADHD to name but a few. Hopefully in the future they will produce a cure for these diseases amongst many others.  Additionally, those who keep venomous snakes have the ability to ‘milk’ them for their venom in order to make anti-venom.

In concluding, if you are considering keeping a venomous reptile, please do your research and apply for a DWA license (if applicable in your country). I do not own any venomous reptiles myself but I have seen them up close in vivariums and can honestly say they are majestic creatures. If you come across an animal in the wild and unsure if it is venomous or not, the best option is to leave it alone and walk away; in that situation, the risk is definitely not worth the rewards.